Bio-fermentation: a way to explore efficient and eco-conscious cosmetic products
Bio-fermentation process is a low carbon foot-print solution. By selecting the right micro-organism and the right substrate, possibilities are limitless. A wide range of actives are coming from bio-fermentation like radiance enhancers, energizers and wrinkle fillers but we see more and more complex functional ingredients emerging in the beauty and personal care market for playing on the texture, stabilizing, emulsifying or to improve performance (solubilizer, deposition aids) of different products. At Univar Solutions, we propose the following technology coming from bio fermentation:
- Sclerotium gum & Xanthan gum from Cargill Beauty
- Sophorolipid & Dextran derivative from Dow
Actigum™ VSX 20: A performant versatile biopolymer
COSMOS approved, cold processable slightly anionic biopolymer, combination of sclerotium and xanthan gum. This biopolymer is obtained through a process of aerobic fermentation of sugars with strains of non-GMO Sclerotium rolfsii and Xanthomonas campestris. Sources in the fermentation broth are of 100% vegetable origin: wheat and sugar beet.
This biopolymer is a performant versatile texturizer: effective viscosity builder, performant suspensive agent (≥0.3% dose) and emulsion stabilizer that contributes a very pleasant, light, smooth, and slightly fresh sensoriality to formulations. It has sprayable properties and creates translucent gels. It is stable in a wide pH range (3-12) and has a broad compatibility profile (electrolytes, surfactants, alcohol, preservatives and high temperatures) which makes it suitable for use in a wide range of applications. It may be used alone or in combination with other texturizers to give original textures.
High shear is necessary to fully develop the desired properties of the sclerotium gum family and thus they must be dispersed using a homogenizer R/S type equipment: Silverson L5M-A (5000rpm, 5min) and Ultra Turrax T25 (12000rpm, 15-20min). Cold process is possible, heating (80°C) will only make faster the deployment of the polymer. In emulsions Actigum™ VSX 20 can be either dispersed in the water phase or in the oil phase (similar viscosity and particle size). When dispersed in water, preblending Actigum™ VSX 20 in glycerin is recommended to avoid lump formation.
Characteristics:
| Typical properties |
Actigum™ VSX 20 |
| INCI Name |
Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum |
| Appearance | Off-white powder |
|
Cosmos Approved |
Yes |
| Natural Origin Index* | 1 |
| Biodegradability** | Readily Biodegradable |
* According to ISO 16128
**According to OECD 301B
Applications:
- Skin Care
- Sun Care
- Hair Care
- Toiletries
- Color Cosmetics
Benefits
- Highly efficient thickener
- Performant suspending agent (≥0.3% dose)
- Emulsion stabilization aid
- Sensory enhancer
- Sprayable properties
- Cold/hot processable
- Dose of use: 0.1-2.0%
- Stable at a broad pH range (3-12)
- Broad compatibility profile
- COSMOS approved
- Halal, Kosher
- Made in France
- 100% nature derived*
- Readility biodegradable**
- Vegan Suitable***
* According to ISO 16128
**According to OECD 301B
***The responsibility of vegan claim lies with the cosmetic manufacturer.
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